Day 20 ending in Villafranca del Bierzo

Delightful walk today.  We’re smack in the middle of a pretty famous wine growing region. The Romans brought their grapes and their expertise, and the locals took over. The region was devastated when the phylloxera epidemic came, but the locals are back with pretty good red wines and great white wines. Mining is a big industry here. There’s lots of magnesium in the soil. Apparently that makes for unusual tasting wine.

The hostel tonight is in the town, which is the historic capital of the region. Cute little place. Lots of public art for some reason.

I seem to have planned a back-breakingly difficult day for myself tomorrow. Hmmmmm well, I can get a taxi if necessary. I have to check in to the albergue by 6. Luckily, I have cash and a cell phone.

This wisteria will take over the earth if not constantly supervised

Miles 14

Day 19 ending in Ponferrada

What a day. It was really struggle bus until lunch. My asthma finally loosened up, and the application of coffee and sandwiches made the afternoon quite pleasant.

Even with several, um, strategically unplanned detours, I arrived at my evenings lodgings in good spirits.

I feel good and am excited to go on tomorrow.

This view was unbelievable
Cruz de Ferro
People bring rocks or mementos to signify leaving burdens behind
Some of the stuff is clearly not emotionally significant
This old dude named Tomas has been greeting pilgrims for years
He wanted me to take a Pic of him and this US flag
Spring is exploding
For sale: one home. Good location,  roof may need some work

Miles 24

Day 18 ending in Rabanal Del Camino

I made 4 hours of walking before I crapped out.

Still feel awful.

We’re finally leaving the plains. The wind laid off someplace else and the walking is much more interesting. Someone used the S word (That’s snow). I hushed them.

Really charming, this little town. At 7, there’s some Gregorian chanting on offer for Easter Monday. Edit: it was Vespers and it was very peaceful.

The pope died. The news here has been nuts with it. Hope the next one is a good person.

The lambs this morning made me happy
A hermitage outside of Astorga
The health water faucet was broken, but I managed to squeeze out a drop. I felt better immediately

All the important information is readily available to pilgrims
Giant stork nest up there
The cute purple flowers were everywhere today
This cat hated me for some reason

Miles 12.6

Day 17 ended in Astorga

My allergies and asthma have wiped me out. If I still feel this bad tomorrow, I’ll check into a hotel and take a day off

Otherwise I had a pretty good day. Managed to catch a mass at the cathedral and watch the Sunday procession before eating a giant meal and napping.

The albergue I’m staying at is old and so neat. There’s beer in the vending machine and hot showers. Can’t ask for more.

Just a beautiful morning
Another roman bridge
All the apple trees are blooming
Most of the walks into towns are along pretty grim roads
This hunchback has been following me for days
View of the cathedral from the hostel
St James

Miles 17