You’ve been warned…

Lots of photos today.

Today was the DMZ tour that I’ve so looked forward to…and it was great!

Mr Han picked us up at 7
This observation tower looks into North Korea
Lots of checkpoints, I showed my passport five times today
UN flags at the base
Yes, there’s a gift shop
We all signed waivers saying we know the risks
Fairly informative and entertaining slide show of a short history of the DMZ
We couldn’t take any more pictures until this part of the tour
I’m on the far side of the concrete slab, so here I’m technically in North Korea
North Korean soldiers dont enter this room anymore, so here’s a ROK soldier keeping us out of the DPRK
Also, DPRK soldiers dont face off with the UN soldiers in front of the tourists anymore. There’s only one North Korean soldier in this picture that you can see. I get the impression that there’s lots of firepower close at hand though, hidden.
Here’s the best I could get of the DPRK soldier on duty
Our time at the JSA was kinda short, there’s a lot I couldn’t take photos of. Im sure you can see more online
A small display in the museum upstairs depicts The Axe Murder Incident. No joke, it sounds straight up awful.

The last two scheduled points on the tour of the JSA were cancelled for safety reasons. we were told later it was because of landmine clearing activities?

On to the DMZ…

The South Koreans built this train station in hopes that someday people can go to NK as friends
Tbh, I dont know if these doors will ever open. Things are tense right now.
There were several interesting arts to see
It was way too hazy to see much at the observatory

Lots of active landmine fields here still.
Last stop was the 3rd infiltration tunnel.

There’s this terrible movie you are made to watch. I wish I had recorded it. Its like Michael Bay and that infomercial Shamwow guy had a movie baby together.

The tunnel is pretty far underground
I had to steal this one off the internet bc they took our cameras, but that’s what it looks like
There is literally an amusement park 1 km from the controlled zones, with an attached memorial area. Many koreans had written prayers on ribbons and tied them to this fence
This is the closest South Koreans are allowed to get to the border. More prayers
An old locomotive from the war
I was lucky enough to sit next to Anita on the tour bus, we had a lovely dinner and walk-around after the tour ended.
Walking back to the metro station
Hey, it’s another demonstration!
Dongdaemun Gate at night. It’s one of only two parts of the original city walls remaining

So thats my day. We were lucky the trip happened at all. All tours were cancelled for several days this week!

It was great. Struck gold with my seatmate Anita, and the weather was ok too.

I’m so lucky to be here doing all this stuff😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

Goodnight everyone 

Fantastic Friday hiking…

Got to cross something else off my bucket list today….yay!

Bukhansan National Park is reachable by Seoul city metro. Amazing! I literally rode the bus to a national park!!

So the first assault went ok at the start. 

Snacks and water? Check

Comfortable shoes? Check

Realistic expectations? Check

My interpretation of the word “moderate”…..problem.

Look at this! I got this!!
Hey, it’s a temple! Cool!!
Aaaaaaand….this is where I turned around. I didn’t feel bad until I saw an 80 year-old lady scramble across this section

In hiking, moderate means moderately technical, not moderately strenuous. I learned that today.

That called for lunch. Kimbap of course.

So, daunted but not beaten, I rode the bus to another section of trail.

I think these are kimchi huts
Ahhh…this is more like it. Plenty of people and snacking opportunities
Seoul is huge
Still a few maples on the job

Just in case you wanted to pump any iron on your hike

Shout-out to BiBiRi (ri means land of, so bibimbap land) ((wipes away tears))

The day ended with a long and interesting chat. Hostels are great places to meet other travelers, especially great when they have so much to share.

Rainy Thursday Adventure…

So today I invited myself along on my hostel mates adventure. So glad that I did! Thanks Willie!!

After two train rides, we stopped at a cafe to wait for the bus. I made friends with a cute doggie. We’re BFF’s now.

First stop was the Garden of Morning Calm. Quiet and fairly abandoned due to the rain. Still very nice.

Lunch was some corndog thingy. It was yummy but made my stomach hurt.

Second stop was Petite France, a godawful tourist attraction. I feel sorry for any Korean who goes to France thinking that’s what they’ll get.

Last stop was Nami Island. Just as touristy as Petite France but somehow *much* more charming? Anyway they had lots of rare trees, including two rows of gorgeous Metasequoia.

Dinner was glorious. They have all-you-can-eat bibimbap places here and it is wonderful. The food quality is high there.

I fell in love with this dog. His name translated means “horrible one ” lol
There was 4 greenhouses. This is autumn
Froggy told me he wanted to stay

All the paths here are very beautiful
The summer greenhouse
My corndog had french fries on the outside

Petite France only gets one picture. Look at the sadness in this clowns eyes. It will tell you all that you need to know.

This is the Elysian Fountain
This robo frog seemed very angry
Here’s those Metasequoia

Truly, this dinner was what I’d been waiting for

Super cold day…

So cold today!! Sure am glad I brought my China hat. Thanks Allisa!

The Leeum Museum was great today. The museum has (in its permanent collection) traditional and modern Korean art, and some international artists too. I wasn’t allowed to take pictures.

The temporary exhibit was fantastic. Olafur Eliasson is an Icelandic artist specializing in installation art. Really fun exhibit. http://www.olafureliasson.net/ 

While I was enjoying art, my country elected Trump. 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
After a forgettable lunch, a walk was in order. Just had a wander about.

While looking around, I came across a kind of demonstration. Some folks are still upset (justifiably so) about the ferry accident from some time ago. It seems that 9 kids are still missing. There was a memorial set up and protestors holding signs demanding justice. Some ladies were dancing. I watched for a while and cried a little thinking about how all those kids died.

Dinner was pot stickers.

I think the broken mirrors represent the human in modern society…. or something

Repetition and symmetry are big themes in this guys art so of course I like it

The entire room had misters and bright lights, so many rainb2
Froggy loves two-headed deers!

King Sejong, a very important guy
Now that’s advice I can follow
Sejong/Hanegul display below the statue
Here is the memorial to all those poor kids
Ahhhh yarn bombing